Yanagi

The menu features a tempting range of fresh fish, including natural Goto sea bass delivered from Nagasaki, seared white tilefish sashimi, arakabu and striped beakfish. The sashimi reflects a careful approach to sourcing, while the grilled options include red fish pickled in sake lees, dried alfonsino, striped atka mackerel and salt-grilled silver salmon. Pair them with regional sake such as Harushika or Hyakurakumon from Nara, or San'in from Shimane, for a leisurely drink that lets the fish take centre stage.

There is more than fish here. Izakaya-style small plates and other dishes include salt-grilled chicken wings, fried shrimp paste sandwiches and a simple stir-fry of vegetables with meat. For a more filling finish, you can order yakisoba or yaki udon; the menu has plenty to suit a proper meal as well as a spread of snacks.

A short walk from Daita-bashi Station, Yanagi sits in a residential part of Ohara, Setagaya City. The compact dining room has 7 counter seats and 1 raised-floor seating area. On weekday afternoons, diners stop in for set meals such as grilled fish or fried prawns; in the evening, solo guests can settle in with a small dish and a drink. For handmade cooking and a homely welcome in an unpretentious setting, this is the sort of place where you can simply choose a seat and unwind.